Engine Swap Basics:
https://www.drivingline.com/articles/master-class-engine-swap-basics/Installing Chevrolet & GM Engines into the Jeep XJ Cherokee / Wagoneer & MJ Comanche:
https://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/engines/swap-guides/chevy-buick-gm/xj-swap/"It is crucial to discuss transmissions early on. They are sometimes more central to the conversion than the engine.
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TH700R4 & Early 4L60E : As the TH350 lacks overdrive, many installers will opt for the GM
TH700R-4 automatic. The Turbo 700R4 transmission has taken the conversion world by storm and is a good option for the same reasons as the TH350, with advantages in having both a lower first gear and a .75:1 overdrive.
Additionally, it is the transmission often coupled with many of the GM TBI & TPI V6 & V8 engines that are the prime candidates for XJ swaps. Note that there are 60 deg. (2.8L, 3.1L, 3.4L & 3800) and 90 deg. (Small Block V6/V8) versions of the 700R4, though the latter is far more common.
• The NP207, NP231 and NP242 transfer cases are adaptable to the TH700R by using our #171 series adapter kits.
4L60E: The new and most refined version of the 700R4 is the 4L60E, and is a great candidate as well, especially when installed with a Gen. III GM engine and PCM (Powertrain Control Module).
If installing a car version of the 4L60E, the driver's side indicator switch should be swapped out for the truck version switch, so that a Park / Neutral safetey switch and reverse light switch are available.
• The NP207, NP231 and NP242 transfer cases are adaptable to the 4L60-E by using our #4L61 series adapter kits.
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The only two engines we can recommend for installation are, thankfully, two of the best engines ever built:
The Generation I-II Chevrolet Small Block V8
The Generation III+ GM Small Block LS (car version) V8
Because of the XJ / MJ low hood, it has to be a low profile engine. This rules out the Chevy V6, and any tall versions of the Chevy V8.
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Most Gen I & Gen II engine accessories exhibit good clearance to the Jeep. However, some truck versions of these engines have taller accessories that may interfere with the XJ hood and require reconfiguration."
Jeep V8 Engine Swap Options - Junkyard Jeep Powerplants:
https://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/transmission-drivetrain/154-1106-jeep-v8-engine-swap-options/"Chevy TBI 305/350 - Years Manufactured: 1987-1996... You'll find the 350 TBI (throttle body injection) 210hp/300lb-ft engine in pickups, vans, Blazers, Suburbans, and cars like the Camaro or Caprice sedan and wagon. Most-commonly, you'll stumble across the pickup models. The 170hp/255lb-ft L03 305 could be found in these chassis as well from '88-'92, so be sure to check the rear of the block next to the distributor. The 350s will have a 5.7L and the 305s will have a 5.0L cast atop the bellhousing location. In '93-'95 the 305 got a bump in torque, up to 275lb-ft, but horsepower remained the same at 170.
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The factory TBI computer is a speed-density system that runs off pre-determined air/fuel tables. If you're looking to modify your power levels with stuff like aftermarket camshafts, intake manifolds, head swaps, or even major exhaust modifications you'll probably have to have a new chip burned to prevent the engine from running too lean and having detonation issues. Also, don't try to run a 305 computer on a 350 and vice-versa.
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Ford HO 5.0L - Years Manufactured:1986-1992In 1986 Ford introduced the compact HO 5.0L in its Mustang GT & LX models. The 90-degree V-8 was rated at 225hp/300lb-ft and ran a speed-density MPI injection, rowdy hydraulic-roller camshaft, and remained unchanged through the '88 model year. In 1989 a mod-friendly mass-airflow EFI was introduced, along with a slightly tamer camshaft. This change is said to have dropped power a bit, but in reality it allowed the engine to better cope with aftermarket and environmental changes. With the exception of the Cobra models, the HO 5.0L in the 'Stang remained unchanged until 1993, when hypereutectic pistons replaced the factory forged jobbies and dropped power to 205hp. In 1988 the HO 5.0L was installed in Lincoln MK VII vehicles and remained unchanged (speed-density EFI included) through the '92 models. The HO 5.0L also popped up in some '91-'93 Thunderbird and Cougar models. However, the big score is to find a '97-'01 Explorer or Mountaineer with the 5.0L engine. These got Ford's excellent GT-40 heads and Cobra intake, although the blocks and pistons aren't as durable as the earlier true HO 5.0L engines. A lame-duck cam limited these SUV engines to 215hp, but installing a factory 5.0L Mustang cam bumps that to 300hp easily.
It's a super-compact, lightweight powerhouse with incredible durability. With roller camshafts, forged pistons, and high-nickel blocks, the 5.0L could rev to the stratosphere and would last well past 200K miles. Even today it's not uncommon to see high-mileage blocks exhibiting very, very little cylinder wear."
Jeep V8 Engine Swap Options - Late-Model Muscle:
https://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/transmission-drivetrain/154-1107-jeep-v8-engine-swap-options/"For starters, most late-model Ford V-8 engines like the 4.6L and 5.4L are bulky, wide, and not well supported by the aftermarket in terms of swapping. As for the Chrysler engines, I'd really only consider a 5.7L Hemi.
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The nice thing about the Gen III GM engine options is they've been around in one form or another since '97. Parts interchangeability between the different Gen III engines is strong, as is the aftermarket support in terms of conversion harnesses, accessories, exhaust, and other components. They're durable, make great power, and respond well to aftermarket modifications. Furthermore, you can easily mate them to a host of transmissions (including factory Jeep offerings), and they're cheap and plentiful if you're looking to score used take-outs."
How to LS Swap a Jeep XJ Cherokee:https://www.jk-forum.com/how-tos/slideshows/how-to-ls-swap-a-jeep-xj-cherokee-photos-469252#"If you are shopping for an XJ to swap a motor into, the later versions have a computer that can be adapted to the GM EFI, or else you need to do some more adapting. If your XJ is pre-1995, you will want to remove the individual ECM and TCM units. You can toss the engine harnesses and ECM and use a standalone, or factory GM computer, but make sure to keep the chassis harnesses and computer. If you have an XJ that is 96 or later, like the one pictured above, you are in luck as you can keep your PCM. The downside of the more modern XJ though is that the GM computer won't talk to the Jeep instrument cluster, so you'll need to build your own from aftermarket gauges.
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The good thing about the LS is that almost any GM transmission will bolt up to it, and almost any transfer case can be adapted. Again, Novak Conversions has an excellent run down of what works and what doesn't, but the short answer is to try to get a matched motor/transmission out of a parts car."
Cheap Jeep Power: 5 Budget-Friendly Engine Swaps:
https://www.drivingline.com/articles/cheap-jeep-power-5-budget-friendly-engine-swaps/"As
one of the often overlooked V8s is the 4.8 liter LS - these small blocks can be purchased cheaply. Since the 4.8L and 5.3L share much of the same architecture (both have the same block, but different internals), the aftermarket potential for real power is there. You'll be looking for ones under the hood of
'99 to '13 GM trucks and SUVs. Stock horsepower figures range from 270 to 302hp, with torque digits nearing 305 lb-ft, depending on the year. Since it is a late-model, fuel-injected engine, you'll need the computer and harness at the very least.
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If you're looking for a V8 with a great legacy, look no further than GM's 5.7L 350ci V8. The fuel-injected push-rod versions you'll want can be found in GM cars, trucks and SUVs spanning '87 to '96.
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The sheer availability and aftermarket support makes the high output 5.0L Ford V8 a great option. Most commonly found in Ford Mustangs spanning '86 to '92, the 302ci engine can be a sound swap, packing 225hp and 300 lb-ft of torque right out of the gate. An aftermarket rear-sump oil pan will be needed, along with an external fuel regulator and pump, but the cars stock harness and computer are easy to work with."
Various Jeep XJ Junkyard upgrade tips:
https://trustedlink.wixsite.com/everyday-xj-jan-15/junkyard-upgradesCheap Jeep Brake System Upgrades:https://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/transmission-drivetrain/154-0810-cheap-jeep-brake-system-upgrades/"... we did stumble across a cheap and easy way to
upgrade the braking systems on pre-'95 Cherokees and Comanches.From '84-'94, the Cherokee and Comanche were stuck with a single-diaphragm brake booster. It worked OK for the stock application, but once a lift and tires factored in, the inadequacies of the stock parts became apparent. After driving a few late-model Cherokees and noticing how much better the brakes are, we decided to swap the late-model vacuum booster and master cylinder into an early-model Jeep.
... After some more research, we discovered that the '99-'04 Grand Cherokee booster and master had a shorter rod and would make for an easy swap.
How it works is the later Cherokee and Grand Cherokee use dual-diaphragm boosters which increase the line pressure in the brake system, apply more pressure to the brakes, and make you stop faster.
What we didn't get right off the bat was just how easy it would be."
WJ brake upgrade for a 2001 XJ: https://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1004721"I'm hoping to simplify this conversion as much as possible and write a comprehensive guide regarding how to perform it on 97+ XJs. If my theories and what I've read are correct, I'm guessing the following will ultimately be required:
Buy WJ steering knuckles, calipers, rotors, and ball joints (and maybe tie rod/tracking bar?), as well as the aforementioned JKS spacers.
Install the ball joints on my bare XJ front axle.
Install the JKS spacers into my stock hub/bearing assemblies.
Re-drill rotors to fit XJ hub bolt pattern.
Assemble everything as needed.
Upgrade to 16"+ wheels?
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There isn't any difference between the knuckles themselves. When we did the 'swap' on our WJ we just picked up the Akebono calipers and bolted them on, which is actually the TSB for rotor warpage from Chrysler. Same rotors, even, between the Teeves and Akebono. And for the guy above me here, the Akebono are preferred over the Teeves. I wish I had taken photos, but the Akebonos are gigantic compared to the Teeves, with quite a bit more surface area on the pads.
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-Lower WJ balljoints, XJ uppers.
-1/4" JKS spacers get welded to the WJ knuckles, not to the hub assembly
-Use 2002 Ford Explorer Sport track rotors, they are already 5x4.5. I made the offset work. If you do this, you'll need to shave a bit off the outer diameter of the hub flanges to get them to fit inside the rotors. You might need to space out the calipers a bit to get them to line up with the rotors. Some people say don't use spacers (washers) others, including myslef, are using them with no issue.
-I did not need to upgrade to 16" wheels. You should be able to shave a bit off the calipers if need be. Mine cleared fine though. (cragar 15" wheels with 3.75" backspacing).
Go with Akenobo calipers.
I did things a bit differently, but in hindsight, the easiest way for the other parts would be to get the JKS stuff. Get the WJ tie rod ends. Get the JKS tie rod that works with them. As for the track bar, use the JKS axle side relocation bracket they sell. The upper mount and the track bar itslef is kind of up to you.
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Instead of spacing out the caliper bracket or using the Sport Trac rotors, you can use pre-90 unit bearings and still be able to use the stock WJ rotors and caliper brackets.
IF you use the current wheel bearing from you '01, you'll have to do the caliper bracket spacer or the Sport Trac rotors.
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etc."
XJ Cherokee Conversion to WJ Front Brakes & Steering: http://4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/brakes/xj_wjbrakes03/"A series describing the addition of year 2000 WJ Grand Cherokee steering and brake components to a 1988 XJ Cherokee."
Part 1 - Booster/Master Cylinder:
http://4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/brakes/xj_wjbrakes03/booster/index.htm"The '00 WJ brake booster/master cylinder modification was a lot easier than installing the later style XJ setup and it was not necessary to relocate either the washer bottle or air box on the early models. I also did not have to swap out the power brake booster pedal rod."
Part 2 - Proportioning Valve:
http://4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/brakes/xj_wjbrakes03/valve/index.htm"I added a new rear axle that has disc brakes, so I did this modification to allow the rear disc brakes to do their job and help overall braking. I recommend either swapping in a proportioning valve that is set up for rear discs or adding a adjustable proportioning valve to prevent premature rear brake lockup."
Part 3 - Knuckles, Steering & Brakes:
http://4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/brakes/xj_wjbrakes03/knuckles/index.htm"The steering is very tight and sensitive now but the biggest total improvement is the brakes. I expected an improvement in braking but didn't think they would work so well. In summary to say that they work better than when the vehicle was stock is an understatement."
Quadratec Jeep Brake Conversion Kits: https://www.quadratec.com/categories/jeep_steering_brake_parts/brake_conversion_kitsPower Stop K2119-36 Front Z36 Extreme Performance Truck & Tow Brake:
https://www.quadratec.com/products/56215_4101_07.htmTeraflex 4354420 Rear Disc Brake Kit for 91-06 Jeep Cherokee XJ:
https://www.quadratec.com/products/12700_400_07.htmCrown Automotive RT31007 Disc Brake Conversion Kit w/o Parking Brake Cables For 91-06 Jeep Vehicles with Dana 35 or Chrysler 8.25 Rear Axle without ABS:
https://www.quadratec.com/products/12700_1001.htm
