25 Ford Windsor Engine-Swap Mistakes to Avoid
https://www.hotrod.com/articles/25-ford-302-5-0-efi-engine-swap-errors/"1. Mismatching the ECU and engine firing order:
To avoid computer electrical terminal repinning and rewiring or costly parts swaps, if using the factory ECU, it must be compatible with (have the same firing order as) the engine's camshaft. Ford used two different firing orders on roller-cammed 5.0L Windsor V8 fuel-injected engines: the "traditional" 289/302 firing order and the so-called 5.0L-HO/351W firing order.
...
Ford numbers its V8 cylinders consecutively down each bank, starting with No. 1 on the passenger side. Traditional 289/302 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8 firing order applies to all 5.0/302 engines with flat-tappet cams. All 5.0L-HO roller-cam engines use the 351C/M/W's 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8 order. Depending on model and year, roller-cam non-HO 5.0L V8s could have used either order.
2. Mismatching the ECU fuel-injector firing sequence:
Ford 5.0L (302) Windsor V8 port fuel-injection cars fire the fuel injectors individually and sequentially according to the firing order (termed "SFI" or sequential-fire injection by Ford). Pickup trucks with port fuel-injection use a batch-fire system (half the injectors fire simultaneously). ECUs must be compatible with the injector firing mode.
3. Mismatching the ECU and transmission:
Only the 1994 and later AOD-E (the fully electronic successor to the original AOD) needs to work with a specific ECU.
On the original AOD, the ECU does not control TCC (torque converter clutch) lockup or manage shift-point, so the AOD and other manual and automatic trannies just don't care where the computer came from. Even a legacy (pre-computer) trans like a C4, C6, Top Loader, or T10 works. But see Tips 11 and 12, below.
4. Mass Air meter improperly installed or located (doesn't apply to 1987 Grand Marquis and other Speed Density vehicles):
Factory MAF meter calibration assumes an original OE mounting location. The meter might not work properly if relocated. Bends immediately downstream or upstream from the MAF disturb airflow through the meter, resulting in an incorrect reading.
If departing from the factory ducting and mounting location, a Ford OE MAF meter ideally needs about 10 inches of straight tubing on either side of it for optimal performance.
The MAF should not butt up against the throttle body; the delay between actual airflow through the meter versus the amount of throttle opening in the throttle body may confuse the signal to the ECU.
Don't butt a stock MAF meter directly up against the back of the air filter, either.
Recalibrated aftermarket meter/air filter combo "teams," which are specifically designed to work as a unit, are available (Pro-M is one source).
Because of possible turbulence that can result in an incorrect reading, don't locate the meter directly in the cooling fan path.
5. The engine won't run right without catalytic converters (partial fallacy):
All Ford SFI V8 engines have dual exhaust, one pipe for each bank of cylinders. Each bank (side) has its own narrowband oxygen (O2) sensor, located ahead of the catalytic converter(s).
On some cars the dual pipes merge to go through a single catalytic converter; others have a full dual exhaust system with dual converters.
You can remove the converter(s) without affecting system operation or driveability in an emissions-exempt application that uses the OBD-1 Ford engine management system (basically anything prior to 1996 with the 60-pin ECU; OBD-2 systems have a larger 104-pin ECU). The 60-pin ECU won't even throw a code.
6. Incorrect O2 sensor location or installation:
With or without the converter(s), the OE system still requires an O2 sensor on each bank, mounted as close as possible to the original stock position.
The O2 sensor needs to sample the average oxygen content of that entire bank, so if fabricating a custom exhaust, install the sensor in each bank's common collector or pipe no more than 3 inches downstream from the pipe's merge point. As Sanchez puts it, "O2 sensors work off heat. Anything more than 3 inches and the pipe becomes too cool. If the exhaust is too cold, the sensor always causes the computer to command an overly rich fuel mixture."
7. Removing the "smog" (Thermactor) pump and related valves:
This belt-driven air pump adds air to the exhaust. On a cold start, it injects air ahead of the OBD-1 system's O2 (oxygen) sensor mounted upstream (before) the stock setup's catalytic converter.
With the extra injected air, the O2 sensor reports a "lean" mixture to the ECU, which then commands additional fuel enrichment for the first 30 seconds of engine operation (it's the electronic version of a carburetor choke). Without the additional smog pump-supplied air, the O2 sensor won't read lean—which means the ECU won't order additional enrichment, causing a cold engine to stall out.
As the engine warms up, based on ECU input from air and coolant temperature sensors, a valve switches the air injection to a port downstream from the O2 sensor but still upstream from the converter, which keeps the converter hot or "lit off." With the O2 sensor no longer seeing additional air, it reports a normal "stoichiometric" A/F ratio (about 14.7:1 at hot idle or cruise).
In an emissions-exempt application, using the OE Ford engine management system, you can discard the smog pump only if the following are both "true":
You're not running catalytic converters and never drive or start the car below 30 degrees Fahrenheit ambient temperatures.
As for a smog pump's supposed detrimental effect on performance:
Actual back-to-back dragstrip tests performed by Sanchez years ago show that, with no other changes, "a smog pump costs only one-tenth of 1 hp."
Thermactor tubes bolt to the rear of late-model cylinder heads. To prevent an exhaust leak out the back of the heads if not using the tubes, plug the passage holes with Ford's blind-threaded insert kit (PN F4ZZ-6E086-A). Aftermarket off-road-only air pump eliminator idler brackets for the serpentine-drive system are available from several sources (including Ford Performance, PN M-8604-A50).
8. Removing the EGR valve:
EGR removal raises NOX (oxides of nitrogen emissions) and increases engine knock. The ECU thinks something's seriously wrong with a knocking engine, so it makes the air/fuel ratio one full point richer and retards the timing to "save" it. Either way, the car runs like crap.
9. The engine won't run right without an evaporative control system (partial fallacy):
An evaporative-control cannister and return lines aren't necessary on an early emissions-exempt car with an externally vented gas tank, but you still need the evaporative control open/close valve (EFE or early fuel evaporation valve) plugged in to stop the ECU from setting a code.
In an emissions-exempt retrofit with a vented gas tank, keep the EFE valve plugged in to the wire harness but without any hoses connected—then tuck it out of the way where no one can see it.
10. Improper electrical grounds:
Do not tie all the ECU grounds together. Ford has them separated to clean up bleed over that can confuse the sensitive, usually low-voltage electrical signals.
On any 60-pin Ford ECU (including the 1987 Grand Marquis), the wires that connect to ECU terminals 60 and 40 should go straight back to the negative battery terminal. ECU terminal 20 should ground directly to the body or frame.
11. Not hooking up the VSS if the system requires one:
All MAF-meter-equipped Fords (and many aftermarket EFI systems) must use a Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS). Depending on the specific model year and options, Ford OE Speed Density metering systems may or may not need a VSS.
On first-gen Ford EFI systems, if required the VSS' primary purposes are preventing engine stall under braking or interfacing with the factory cruise control system.
Need to run a VSS plus a cable-driven speedometer on a Ford? Use this piggyback VSS switch (AutoZone Duralast PN SU1022 or equivalent). Stock on many Fords circa 1988-1993 (including Meckstroth's 1987 Ford AOD with factory cruise control), it even fits an old C4, screwing right into the existing speedometer cable hole.
12. NDS switch missing or not connected (automatic transmission):
In gear, additional load imparted on the engine by the torque converter and trans cause an idle-speed drop.
The NDS (Neutral Drive Switch) on the trans case detects whether the trans is in Neutral or in a drive gear.
If the trans is in gear, it signals the ECU to increase engine idle airflow via the IAC (Idle Air Control) motor, preventing the engine from stalling out.
Automatic transmissions require an NDS when running the Ford ECU. On the AOD, it's located on the driver-side of the main case above the shift linkage. With legacy transmissions like the C4, C6, or FMX that lack NDS switch provisions, you'll need to get creative. On a C4, Sanchez installed a generic single-pole, single-throw (SPST), normally open (NO) switch on the shift linkage (B) using a right-angle hardware-store bracket. It closes in gear, signaling the ECU to raise engine speed by 150 rpm.
13. Wrong flexplate and harmonic damper (wrong unbalance):
All Ford small-blocks are externally balanced, but the amount of external unbalance on the 5.0L engines changed in late 1981.
Early small-blocks (including the original Comet V8 260 or 289) had 28.2 oz-in unbalance.
In late 1981, 302/5.0L V8s went to a 50 oz-in unbalance.
The flexplate and front damper must have the correct amount of external unbalance for the engine.
Out back, use the correct stock 164-tooth AOD auto trans flexplate with 50 oz-in unbalance. The starter must match the flexplate diameter, which is larger than most early C4 flexplates.
The torque converter must come from an AOD. 50 oz-in flexplates are usually dual-drilled with both Ford torque converter bolt patterns. Performance Automatic is one source for an SFI-certified unit.
14. Early V-belt pulleys don't match balancer:
If using an early three-bolt V-belt crank pulley instead of the late-model serpentine-beltdrive system, you need to redrill the pulley to match the four-bolt pattern on the late 50 oz-in balancer.
All stock early three-bolt balancers have a 28 oz-in unbalance, so they can't be used.
It's possible to redrill the three-bolt pulley at home without machinist-level precision. If the holes end up slightly offset, it shouldn't result in a wobbly pulley because Ford has a tight-fit pulley-to-balancer center index hole (it functions like a road wheel's center hub).
Other alternatives: Find a four-bolt V-belt pulley (circa late 1960s through late 1970s) or buy an aftermarket 50 oz-in unbalance damper with the right pulley bolt pattern.
Ford Performance Parts SFI 18-1 crankshaft damper for 1981 to 1993 302 50 oz-in unbalance engines has both three- and four-bolt pulley mounting patterns. A removable weight allows use with aftermarket internally balanced cranks. Various thickness spacers are available separately as needed to correct belt alignment on the 3-inch overall-length damper.
15. Water pump direction of rotation wrong:
5.0L Ford V8 serpentine belt drives require a reverse-rotation water pump. V-belts require a standard-rotation water pump.
Use a water pump matching the beltdrive system's rotational direction. If unsure, check the impeller: standard (clockwise) rotation at left, used with V-belts; reverse (counterclockwise) rotation at right, used with nearly all serpentine-belt setups.
16. Wrong fan for water pump direction of rotation:
If running a mechanical fan, the blade angles must be compatible with the water pump's direction of rotation.
17. Incompatible water pump and timing cover:
Stock front timing covers must be compatible with the water pump type (standard- or reverse-rotation), the water pump-to-timing cover bolt pattern, and the pump's rear cover's outlet hole shape versus the timing cover's inlet hole shape.
Universal timing covers that accept many standard-rotation and reverse-rotation pumps are available from several sources, including California Pony Cars and Ford Performance Parts.
Generally, if your water pump's rear cover has round outlet holes, it has broader front cover compatibility—or fab your own custom rear cover out of steel or aluminum plate. For more information on Ford water pump and timing cover compatibility, see "Pit Stop: Ford Small-Block V8 Front Cover and Water Pump Interchange."
The "universal" Ford Performance Parts front timing cover (PN M-6059-D351) works on most early and many late applications (with a compatible water pump and pump backing plate). It includes a front-sump oil pan dipstick hole, a mechanical fuel pump boss, and driver- and passenger-side timing tab mounts.
18. Wrong driveshaft yoke:
Use the donor car yoke; early 1960s yokes like the one from the stock Comet had a different yoke spline count.
You'll have to shorten the driveshaft in any event to accommodate an AOD.
19. Changing rearend gears and/or tire sizes from OE configuration screws up the computer (fallacy):
The computer couldn't care less on the first-generation Ford SFI systems, or with any Ford trans (including the AOD) that still uses drive and driven gears to calibrate the speedometer.
20. Wrong oil pan:
Early cars with stock front suspension layouts require a front-sump pan, corresponding oil pump pickup tube and screen, and a front timing cover with a dipstick tube hole—but 1979 and later Fords came with double-hump pans. Normally, this requires swapping to the correct parts. However, the custom TCI frontend with rack-and-pinion steering is set up for the late double-hump oil pan.
21. Lower radiator hose doesn't match original radiator:
Late-model accessory drives are designed to work with a driver-side lower radiator hose.
A 1962 Comet radiator would have had a passenger-side lower hose.
Make up a custom hose, or get a custom radiator with correct late-model lower radiator outlet.
22. Wrong gas pedal:
Not a deal-breaker, but that old vintage pedal and solid metal throttle linkage won't work with an EFI throttle body and late-style accelerator cable.
Use your donor car or a 1979 to 1993 Mustang pedal and throttle cable. The pedal bolts to the floor, so installation is relatively easy.
23. Failure to remove the ballast resistor wire:
Your EFI motor needs a full 12 volts to run right. It won't get it if the old points ignition resistor wire located in the starter switch-to-distributor coil circuit is still in place. The non-resistor portion of the original wire usually is red with a green tracer; the ballast resistor portion is usually pink. It's usually easiest to just run a whole new wire.
24. Gas tank not compatible with EFI:
High-pressure fuel-injection systems require a constant fuel supply. The stock 1980s Ford SFI systems also need a return line.
In-tank pumps are preferred; they run cooler and keep the fuel cooler. Pushing fuel is more efficient than sucking fuel.
Old legacy (non-EFI) fuel tanks don't have the sophisticated internal baffling necessary to prevent fuel slosh at low fuel levels under hard acceleration, braking, or cornering, which in an EFI application might cause momentary fuel starvation. There are four ways to solve this problem: Weld in a sump at the bottom of the tank and use a noisy external fuel pump; install a fuel cell in the trunk; get a high-buck custom tank made; or install an affordable, modular Aeromotive Phantom fuel system inside the existing stock fuel tank.
Alternatively, Aeromotive also offers affordable "plug-and-play" vehicle-specific Gen II Stealth gas tanks that come completely assembled with the Phantom system already installed. For a story where a Phantom fuel module helped solve a 1968 Chevelle's fuel system-related driveability problems, see "The Fuel System in Greg Miller's '68 SS 396 Chevelle Runs Hot."
Modify your legacy fuel tank that lacks proper baffling or return-line provisions for EFI with Aeromotive's Phantom universal modular conversion kits, which come with the pump, pickup, inlet, return, vent, and unique baffling that—once you've drilled a new hole in the tank—permit dropping in the assembly as a unit. ... The system fits any 6- to 11-inch deep fuel tank.
25. Wrong transmission mount:
Early 1960s Ford transmissions still used trans mounts with an offset longitudinal mounting pattern. Like other Ford transmissions since the mid-1960s, the AOD uses modern-style transverse mounts with straight-across bolts. This may require crossmember modification, relocation, or even a complete custom crossmember.
In sum, although there are both mechanical as well as electronic issues on a modern engine swap, aftermarket solutions are available—this is not a pioneering effort. Traditionally, the MAF meter-equipped 5.0L SFI engines are considered to be more modification-friendly without needing major reprogramming, but that isn't necessarily so if dropping an otherwise-stock motor into an early application and inlet duct modifications are needed to get the MAF meter to fit the new chassis (high shock tower interference on old stock Ford suspensions, for example). With an unmodified engine, it may be simpler to use a Speed Density engine-management system in a limited-clearance retrofit application.
For modified engines or those wanting to delete smog equipment in an emissions-exempt environment, consider Holley's Terminator X Speed Density port fuel-injection system. PN 550-937F is compatible with Ford-type TFI ignition systems and MAT and CTS sensors. The system includes a handheld LED calibration touch screen, or you can really dig in deep using a Windows laptop.
If you intend to heavily modify the engine, or really want to trashcan the "superfluous" smog equipment—such as the smog pump or EGR system—in an emissions-exempt application, I'd strongly consider using an easily reprogrammable aftermarket port fuel management system like Holley's Terminator-X. Another alternative is a piggyback system for the factory ECU like those offered by SCT—but you'd be dependent on a third party for a custom tune. SCT doesn't officially support 1988 and earlier Ford computers anymore, and even when it did, custom one-off "tunes" were only available through licensed dealers. AEW's Sanchez can still hack some early factory ECUs in an emissions-exempt application, but he'd need the broadcast code off the donor car's ECU sticker to know for sure.
5.0L Ford Windsor SFI Engine-Swap Gotchas Using Stock Ford Computers
Sources:
Advanced Engineering West (AEW); Mira Loma, CA; 626.222.4648; AEWperformance@aol.com
Aeromotive Inc.; Lenexa, KS; 913.647.7300; AeromotiveInc.com
AutoZone Inc.; Memphis, TN; 800.AUTOZONE; AutoZone.com
California Pony Cars (CPC); Ontario, CA; 888.225.7669 or 909.923.2804; CalPonyCars.com
Ford & Motorcraft Genuine Service Parts; Dearborn, MI; 844.589.0060; Parts.Ford.com
Ford Performance Parts; Dearborn, MI; 800.FORD788 or 313.621.0771; PerformanceParts.Ford.com/
Holley Performance Products; Bowling Green, KY; 800.HOLLEY1 (nearest dealer), 866.464.6553 (tech), or 270.782.2900 (general); Holley.com
Performance Automatic; Frederick, MD; 240.439.4650; PerformanceAutomatic.com
Pro-M Racing Inc.; W. Brookfield, MA (shipping) or Summerfield, NC (sales & tech); 336.644.8668; ProMRacing.com
SCT (a Derive Systems Brand); Sanford, FL; 866.637.1672 or 407.774.2447; SCTflash.com"
To avoid computer electrical terminal repinning and rewiring or costly parts swaps, if using the factory ECU, it must be compatible with (have the same firing order as) the engine's camshaft. Ford used two different firing orders on roller-cammed 5.0L Windsor V8 fuel-injected engines: the "traditional" 289/302 firing order and the so-called 5.0L-HO/351W firing order.
...
Ford numbers its V8 cylinders consecutively down each bank, starting with No. 1 on the passenger side. Traditional 289/302 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8 firing order applies to all 5.0/302 engines with flat-tappet cams. All 5.0L-HO roller-cam engines use the 351C/M/W's 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8 order. Depending on model and year, roller-cam non-HO 5.0L V8s could have used either order.
2. Mismatching the ECU fuel-injector firing sequence:
Ford 5.0L (302) Windsor V8 port fuel-injection cars fire the fuel injectors individually and sequentially according to the firing order (termed "SFI" or sequential-fire injection by Ford). Pickup trucks with port fuel-injection use a batch-fire system (half the injectors fire simultaneously). ECUs must be compatible with the injector firing mode.
3. Mismatching the ECU and transmission:
Only the 1994 and later AOD-E (the fully electronic successor to the original AOD) needs to work with a specific ECU.
On the original AOD, the ECU does not control TCC (torque converter clutch) lockup or manage shift-point, so the AOD and other manual and automatic trannies just don't care where the computer came from. Even a legacy (pre-computer) trans like a C4, C6, Top Loader, or T10 works. But see Tips 11 and 12, below.
4. Mass Air meter improperly installed or located (doesn't apply to 1987 Grand Marquis and other Speed Density vehicles):
Factory MAF meter calibration assumes an original OE mounting location. The meter might not work properly if relocated. Bends immediately downstream or upstream from the MAF disturb airflow through the meter, resulting in an incorrect reading.
If departing from the factory ducting and mounting location, a Ford OE MAF meter ideally needs about 10 inches of straight tubing on either side of it for optimal performance.
The MAF should not butt up against the throttle body; the delay between actual airflow through the meter versus the amount of throttle opening in the throttle body may confuse the signal to the ECU.
Don't butt a stock MAF meter directly up against the back of the air filter, either.
Recalibrated aftermarket meter/air filter combo "teams," which are specifically designed to work as a unit, are available (Pro-M is one source).
Because of possible turbulence that can result in an incorrect reading, don't locate the meter directly in the cooling fan path.
5. The engine won't run right without catalytic converters (partial fallacy):
All Ford SFI V8 engines have dual exhaust, one pipe for each bank of cylinders. Each bank (side) has its own narrowband oxygen (O2) sensor, located ahead of the catalytic converter(s).
On some cars the dual pipes merge to go through a single catalytic converter; others have a full dual exhaust system with dual converters.
You can remove the converter(s) without affecting system operation or driveability in an emissions-exempt application that uses the OBD-1 Ford engine management system (basically anything prior to 1996 with the 60-pin ECU; OBD-2 systems have a larger 104-pin ECU). The 60-pin ECU won't even throw a code.
6. Incorrect O2 sensor location or installation:
With or without the converter(s), the OE system still requires an O2 sensor on each bank, mounted as close as possible to the original stock position.
The O2 sensor needs to sample the average oxygen content of that entire bank, so if fabricating a custom exhaust, install the sensor in each bank's common collector or pipe no more than 3 inches downstream from the pipe's merge point. As Sanchez puts it, "O2 sensors work off heat. Anything more than 3 inches and the pipe becomes too cool. If the exhaust is too cold, the sensor always causes the computer to command an overly rich fuel mixture."
7. Removing the "smog" (Thermactor) pump and related valves:
This belt-driven air pump adds air to the exhaust. On a cold start, it injects air ahead of the OBD-1 system's O2 (oxygen) sensor mounted upstream (before) the stock setup's catalytic converter.
With the extra injected air, the O2 sensor reports a "lean" mixture to the ECU, which then commands additional fuel enrichment for the first 30 seconds of engine operation (it's the electronic version of a carburetor choke). Without the additional smog pump-supplied air, the O2 sensor won't read lean—which means the ECU won't order additional enrichment, causing a cold engine to stall out.
As the engine warms up, based on ECU input from air and coolant temperature sensors, a valve switches the air injection to a port downstream from the O2 sensor but still upstream from the converter, which keeps the converter hot or "lit off." With the O2 sensor no longer seeing additional air, it reports a normal "stoichiometric" A/F ratio (about 14.7:1 at hot idle or cruise).
In an emissions-exempt application, using the OE Ford engine management system, you can discard the smog pump only if the following are both "true":
You're not running catalytic converters and never drive or start the car below 30 degrees Fahrenheit ambient temperatures.
As for a smog pump's supposed detrimental effect on performance:
Actual back-to-back dragstrip tests performed by Sanchez years ago show that, with no other changes, "a smog pump costs only one-tenth of 1 hp."
Thermactor tubes bolt to the rear of late-model cylinder heads. To prevent an exhaust leak out the back of the heads if not using the tubes, plug the passage holes with Ford's blind-threaded insert kit (PN F4ZZ-6E086-A). Aftermarket off-road-only air pump eliminator idler brackets for the serpentine-drive system are available from several sources (including Ford Performance, PN M-8604-A50).
8. Removing the EGR valve:
EGR removal raises NOX (oxides of nitrogen emissions) and increases engine knock. The ECU thinks something's seriously wrong with a knocking engine, so it makes the air/fuel ratio one full point richer and retards the timing to "save" it. Either way, the car runs like crap.
9. The engine won't run right without an evaporative control system (partial fallacy):
An evaporative-control cannister and return lines aren't necessary on an early emissions-exempt car with an externally vented gas tank, but you still need the evaporative control open/close valve (EFE or early fuel evaporation valve) plugged in to stop the ECU from setting a code.
In an emissions-exempt retrofit with a vented gas tank, keep the EFE valve plugged in to the wire harness but without any hoses connected—then tuck it out of the way where no one can see it.
10. Improper electrical grounds:
Do not tie all the ECU grounds together. Ford has them separated to clean up bleed over that can confuse the sensitive, usually low-voltage electrical signals.
On any 60-pin Ford ECU (including the 1987 Grand Marquis), the wires that connect to ECU terminals 60 and 40 should go straight back to the negative battery terminal. ECU terminal 20 should ground directly to the body or frame.
11. Not hooking up the VSS if the system requires one:
All MAF-meter-equipped Fords (and many aftermarket EFI systems) must use a Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS). Depending on the specific model year and options, Ford OE Speed Density metering systems may or may not need a VSS.
On first-gen Ford EFI systems, if required the VSS' primary purposes are preventing engine stall under braking or interfacing with the factory cruise control system.
Need to run a VSS plus a cable-driven speedometer on a Ford? Use this piggyback VSS switch (AutoZone Duralast PN SU1022 or equivalent). Stock on many Fords circa 1988-1993 (including Meckstroth's 1987 Ford AOD with factory cruise control), it even fits an old C4, screwing right into the existing speedometer cable hole.
12. NDS switch missing or not connected (automatic transmission):
In gear, additional load imparted on the engine by the torque converter and trans cause an idle-speed drop.
The NDS (Neutral Drive Switch) on the trans case detects whether the trans is in Neutral or in a drive gear.
If the trans is in gear, it signals the ECU to increase engine idle airflow via the IAC (Idle Air Control) motor, preventing the engine from stalling out.
Automatic transmissions require an NDS when running the Ford ECU. On the AOD, it's located on the driver-side of the main case above the shift linkage. With legacy transmissions like the C4, C6, or FMX that lack NDS switch provisions, you'll need to get creative. On a C4, Sanchez installed a generic single-pole, single-throw (SPST), normally open (NO) switch on the shift linkage (B) using a right-angle hardware-store bracket. It closes in gear, signaling the ECU to raise engine speed by 150 rpm.
13. Wrong flexplate and harmonic damper (wrong unbalance):
All Ford small-blocks are externally balanced, but the amount of external unbalance on the 5.0L engines changed in late 1981.
Early small-blocks (including the original Comet V8 260 or 289) had 28.2 oz-in unbalance.
In late 1981, 302/5.0L V8s went to a 50 oz-in unbalance.
The flexplate and front damper must have the correct amount of external unbalance for the engine.
Out back, use the correct stock 164-tooth AOD auto trans flexplate with 50 oz-in unbalance. The starter must match the flexplate diameter, which is larger than most early C4 flexplates.
The torque converter must come from an AOD. 50 oz-in flexplates are usually dual-drilled with both Ford torque converter bolt patterns. Performance Automatic is one source for an SFI-certified unit.
14. Early V-belt pulleys don't match balancer:
If using an early three-bolt V-belt crank pulley instead of the late-model serpentine-beltdrive system, you need to redrill the pulley to match the four-bolt pattern on the late 50 oz-in balancer.
All stock early three-bolt balancers have a 28 oz-in unbalance, so they can't be used.
It's possible to redrill the three-bolt pulley at home without machinist-level precision. If the holes end up slightly offset, it shouldn't result in a wobbly pulley because Ford has a tight-fit pulley-to-balancer center index hole (it functions like a road wheel's center hub).
Other alternatives: Find a four-bolt V-belt pulley (circa late 1960s through late 1970s) or buy an aftermarket 50 oz-in unbalance damper with the right pulley bolt pattern.
Ford Performance Parts SFI 18-1 crankshaft damper for 1981 to 1993 302 50 oz-in unbalance engines has both three- and four-bolt pulley mounting patterns. A removable weight allows use with aftermarket internally balanced cranks. Various thickness spacers are available separately as needed to correct belt alignment on the 3-inch overall-length damper.
15. Water pump direction of rotation wrong:
5.0L Ford V8 serpentine belt drives require a reverse-rotation water pump. V-belts require a standard-rotation water pump.
Use a water pump matching the beltdrive system's rotational direction. If unsure, check the impeller: standard (clockwise) rotation at left, used with V-belts; reverse (counterclockwise) rotation at right, used with nearly all serpentine-belt setups.
16. Wrong fan for water pump direction of rotation:
If running a mechanical fan, the blade angles must be compatible with the water pump's direction of rotation.
17. Incompatible water pump and timing cover:
Stock front timing covers must be compatible with the water pump type (standard- or reverse-rotation), the water pump-to-timing cover bolt pattern, and the pump's rear cover's outlet hole shape versus the timing cover's inlet hole shape.
Universal timing covers that accept many standard-rotation and reverse-rotation pumps are available from several sources, including California Pony Cars and Ford Performance Parts.
Generally, if your water pump's rear cover has round outlet holes, it has broader front cover compatibility—or fab your own custom rear cover out of steel or aluminum plate. For more information on Ford water pump and timing cover compatibility, see "Pit Stop: Ford Small-Block V8 Front Cover and Water Pump Interchange."
The "universal" Ford Performance Parts front timing cover (PN M-6059-D351) works on most early and many late applications (with a compatible water pump and pump backing plate). It includes a front-sump oil pan dipstick hole, a mechanical fuel pump boss, and driver- and passenger-side timing tab mounts.
18. Wrong driveshaft yoke:
Use the donor car yoke; early 1960s yokes like the one from the stock Comet had a different yoke spline count.
You'll have to shorten the driveshaft in any event to accommodate an AOD.
19. Changing rearend gears and/or tire sizes from OE configuration screws up the computer (fallacy):
The computer couldn't care less on the first-generation Ford SFI systems, or with any Ford trans (including the AOD) that still uses drive and driven gears to calibrate the speedometer.
20. Wrong oil pan:
Early cars with stock front suspension layouts require a front-sump pan, corresponding oil pump pickup tube and screen, and a front timing cover with a dipstick tube hole—but 1979 and later Fords came with double-hump pans. Normally, this requires swapping to the correct parts. However, the custom TCI frontend with rack-and-pinion steering is set up for the late double-hump oil pan.
21. Lower radiator hose doesn't match original radiator:
Late-model accessory drives are designed to work with a driver-side lower radiator hose.
A 1962 Comet radiator would have had a passenger-side lower hose.
Make up a custom hose, or get a custom radiator with correct late-model lower radiator outlet.
22. Wrong gas pedal:
Not a deal-breaker, but that old vintage pedal and solid metal throttle linkage won't work with an EFI throttle body and late-style accelerator cable.
Use your donor car or a 1979 to 1993 Mustang pedal and throttle cable. The pedal bolts to the floor, so installation is relatively easy.
23. Failure to remove the ballast resistor wire:
Your EFI motor needs a full 12 volts to run right. It won't get it if the old points ignition resistor wire located in the starter switch-to-distributor coil circuit is still in place. The non-resistor portion of the original wire usually is red with a green tracer; the ballast resistor portion is usually pink. It's usually easiest to just run a whole new wire.
24. Gas tank not compatible with EFI:
High-pressure fuel-injection systems require a constant fuel supply. The stock 1980s Ford SFI systems also need a return line.
In-tank pumps are preferred; they run cooler and keep the fuel cooler. Pushing fuel is more efficient than sucking fuel.
Old legacy (non-EFI) fuel tanks don't have the sophisticated internal baffling necessary to prevent fuel slosh at low fuel levels under hard acceleration, braking, or cornering, which in an EFI application might cause momentary fuel starvation. There are four ways to solve this problem: Weld in a sump at the bottom of the tank and use a noisy external fuel pump; install a fuel cell in the trunk; get a high-buck custom tank made; or install an affordable, modular Aeromotive Phantom fuel system inside the existing stock fuel tank.
Alternatively, Aeromotive also offers affordable "plug-and-play" vehicle-specific Gen II Stealth gas tanks that come completely assembled with the Phantom system already installed. For a story where a Phantom fuel module helped solve a 1968 Chevelle's fuel system-related driveability problems, see "The Fuel System in Greg Miller's '68 SS 396 Chevelle Runs Hot."
Modify your legacy fuel tank that lacks proper baffling or return-line provisions for EFI with Aeromotive's Phantom universal modular conversion kits, which come with the pump, pickup, inlet, return, vent, and unique baffling that—once you've drilled a new hole in the tank—permit dropping in the assembly as a unit. ... The system fits any 6- to 11-inch deep fuel tank.
25. Wrong transmission mount:
Early 1960s Ford transmissions still used trans mounts with an offset longitudinal mounting pattern. Like other Ford transmissions since the mid-1960s, the AOD uses modern-style transverse mounts with straight-across bolts. This may require crossmember modification, relocation, or even a complete custom crossmember.
In sum, although there are both mechanical as well as electronic issues on a modern engine swap, aftermarket solutions are available—this is not a pioneering effort. Traditionally, the MAF meter-equipped 5.0L SFI engines are considered to be more modification-friendly without needing major reprogramming, but that isn't necessarily so if dropping an otherwise-stock motor into an early application and inlet duct modifications are needed to get the MAF meter to fit the new chassis (high shock tower interference on old stock Ford suspensions, for example). With an unmodified engine, it may be simpler to use a Speed Density engine-management system in a limited-clearance retrofit application.
For modified engines or those wanting to delete smog equipment in an emissions-exempt environment, consider Holley's Terminator X Speed Density port fuel-injection system. PN 550-937F is compatible with Ford-type TFI ignition systems and MAT and CTS sensors. The system includes a handheld LED calibration touch screen, or you can really dig in deep using a Windows laptop.
If you intend to heavily modify the engine, or really want to trashcan the "superfluous" smog equipment—such as the smog pump or EGR system—in an emissions-exempt application, I'd strongly consider using an easily reprogrammable aftermarket port fuel management system like Holley's Terminator-X. Another alternative is a piggyback system for the factory ECU like those offered by SCT—but you'd be dependent on a third party for a custom tune. SCT doesn't officially support 1988 and earlier Ford computers anymore, and even when it did, custom one-off "tunes" were only available through licensed dealers. AEW's Sanchez can still hack some early factory ECUs in an emissions-exempt application, but he'd need the broadcast code off the donor car's ECU sticker to know for sure.
5.0L Ford Windsor SFI Engine-Swap Gotchas Using Stock Ford Computers
- The firing-order of the camshaft and computer must be compatible.
- Sequential-fire and batch-fire computers don't interchange.
- MAF meter and Speed Density computers don't interchange.
- Even in an emissions-exempt application, the EGR valve and Thermactor pump must be used or the engine won't run right.
- Consider an aftermarket EFI system if you don't want to run emissions devices.
- With a few exceptions, most emissions-related sensors are still needed.
- In an emissions-exempt application, the catalytic converters aren't needed or required.
- A VSS isn't needed with most Speed Density Ford computer retrofits.
- An evaporative control system isn't needed but the EFE valve still needs to be plugged in.
- The harmonic damper and flexplate or flywheel need to have the correct 50 oz-in unbalance.
- The starter must match the flexplate or flywheel diameter.
- The harmonic damper and pulley bolt-pattern must match.
- V-belt systems require a standard-rotation water pump. Serpentine systems require a reverse-rotation water pump.
- The timing cover and water pump must have the same bolt-pattern and compatible coolant transfer holes.
- Mechanical fan-blade pitch-angle must match the water pump's direction of rotation.
- Gas tank and fuel-supply system must be EFI-friendly. Consider Aeromotive's Phantom system for converting old legacy tanks.
- Change to a front-sump oil pan and pickup if retrofitting into legacy Fords muscle-cars with stock front suspensions. This may require a new timing cover with dipstick-tube provisions.
- A throttle-body-compatible cable and gas pedal are needed.
- Radiator lower hose ideally should be on the driver-side.
Sources:
Advanced Engineering West (AEW); Mira Loma, CA; 626.222.4648; AEWperformance@aol.com
Aeromotive Inc.; Lenexa, KS; 913.647.7300; AeromotiveInc.com
AutoZone Inc.; Memphis, TN; 800.AUTOZONE; AutoZone.com
California Pony Cars (CPC); Ontario, CA; 888.225.7669 or 909.923.2804; CalPonyCars.com
Ford & Motorcraft Genuine Service Parts; Dearborn, MI; 844.589.0060; Parts.Ford.com
Ford Performance Parts; Dearborn, MI; 800.FORD788 or 313.621.0771; PerformanceParts.Ford.com/
Holley Performance Products; Bowling Green, KY; 800.HOLLEY1 (nearest dealer), 866.464.6553 (tech), or 270.782.2900 (general); Holley.com
Performance Automatic; Frederick, MD; 240.439.4650; PerformanceAutomatic.com
Pro-M Racing Inc.; W. Brookfield, MA (shipping) or Summerfield, NC (sales & tech); 336.644.8668; ProMRacing.com
SCT (a Derive Systems Brand); Sanford, FL; 866.637.1672 or 407.774.2447; SCTflash.com"
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